Kebabs of Calcutta

Let me write about one of my favorite hobbies- eating out. I love visiting restaurants and dining outlets and taste the food they serve. Well, I guess it’s very natural, given the rich dining tradition that Calcutta is known for. It is one of the few cities in India where you will get almost all types of food, starting from Rs 10/- a plate to Rs 5000/- for a platter. Apart from the Indian gastronomical delights, one can even get food from other parts of the world too. So doing justice to my hobby, I one day decide to walk around the city and visit the famous kebab outlets. 

Before I start my journey, let me give a small idea of the history of kebabs in Calcutta. Kebabs of rather Mughlai food first came here, with the arrival of Wajid Ali Shah, the Nawab of Lucknow or Oudh. Shah was a connoisseur of good cuisine, dance, music and other good things of life. After he was deported to Calcutta, he brought along with him a contingent of ‘bawarchis’ and ‘khansamas’, who eventually became pioneers of Mughlai food in the city. The rich dining culture provided a wonderful platform for this new genre of cuisine and steadily became popular. 

So back to my journey, my first stop is at the famous kebab galli behind Nakhoda Masjid in central Calcutta. Located at Zakaria Street in the Rabindra Sarani area, you will get almost types of kebabs here at throwaway prices.  Not as big as the kebab galli of Delhi, but it does have the ingredients to bring that saliva to your tongue. From lip smacking seekh kebabs to delectable noorani kebabs, you can experiment with a range of them.  The best time to visit the place is during Ramzan, when you will get more varieties.

From Rabindra Sarani, I take a 32B bus and head on for Esplanade, commonly known as Dharamtala. It’s hot and humid outside, so I change my mind against walking the whole way. Well, it would cost me 6 rupees but, then the heat is pretty uncomfortable. After passing through innumerable potholes, bumpers and traffic signals I reach Esplanade after 40 minutes. (Well, it’s just a 20 minutes journey, but considering the traffic in Calcutta, the extra 20 minutes are like hidden charges). At Esplanade, I head on to Nizam Restaurant, famous for its Mughlai delicacies. One of the oldest dining places in the city, Nizam is famous for its Burrah kebabs and Chapli kebabs. With an odd 75 rupees, you can easily have the taste of the day here. 

After enjoying a serving of food at Nizam, I now take the route towards Park Circus. I decide to walk through Rafi Ahmad Kidwai Road- around 15 minutes. This place has a strong Muslim culture and here you will find a number of small kebab shops near Maulana Azad College. One of them, Mezban serves wonderful Kakori and Reshmi kebabs. You can enjoy a great serving by taking plate of lachha parathas and kebabs here. The cost is pretty reasonable- around 80 to 100. 

Now I reach Park Circus and head on to Arsalan, a popular Mughlai outlet in Calcutta. A lot of us have tasted biryani here, but one thing that everyone misses is the tasty doner kebab that they make.  It is priced around Rs 100/ and is simply awesome. And if you like beef, head on to Naafil, just opposite the street and enjoy a taste of hot and fresh beef Galouti kebabs with a special type of salad. 

Coming towards the end of my journey (it’s already evening), I head on to Park Street, the dining and booming hub of Calcutta. Park Street’s tryst with good food dates back long and you will get a range of Chinese, Mughlai, Indian, Thai and Continental restaurants. My interest being kebabs, I walk past Little Russel Street and come in front of the grand white building- Prudential Hall, and enter the famous Peter Cat.  Perhaps, whoever knows Peter Cat also knows that it’s famous for Chelow kebabs. Nowhere else in the city will you get this delectable Iranian dish at so an affordable rate.  And yes, to most Calcuttans, Peter Cat and chelow kebabs bring back a sense of nostalgia. Surprisingly, I meet two of my old friends here and we have a good meal of chelow kebabs with some pegs of scotch whiskey.

I get out of the restaurant and go to my last destination, Lazeez at Elgin Road (near the Forum shopping mall). Here you will get very good Kathi and noorani  kebabs. The cost is a bit higher but the money is worth considering the taste, the interior décor and way of serving. I am already full, and only have a small serving. The rest I pack for home. 

My stomach is already throwing goose bumps and I reach the Rabindra Sadan metro station and head back home. I gulp some gelucils and go to bed. Thus my expedition as a gourmand ends!